I plan to build some letter aka secretary boxes based on designs by Mike's Heirloom Boxes in the near future once I finish the curly maple end tables.  Normally, those type of boxes do not have the decorative molding at the lid and the base as my heirloom boxes.  At the moment, the weather has me at bay as far as finishing the end tables; e.g., final finish sanding, applying stain and the application of multiple coats of nitrocellulose lacquer.  I do my lacquer finishing with the project(s) outside and need the basement garage door open with a fan running to get the fine sanding dust particles out of the woodworking shop.  I have a good sawdust collection system for the larger power equipment and a couple shop vacs for the bandsaw, miter saw and other smaller hand held equipment.

PERSONAL SAFETY AND LIABILITY ISSUES

My goal will be to keep Safety paramount because hand and power tools can do serious bodily harm and death if not used properly, therefore these pages are solely for entertainment purposes only from a personal liability standpoint.  Please read the Legal Stuff page for additional information concerning liability issues before going any further.  Safety glasses and hearing protection is a must although I do forgo the hearing protection many times; my bad!

RECON AKA RESEARCH

I did some YouTube video views and basically all the corner spline jigs consist of a V shaped trough to hold the box with a base to support the V shaped trough.  This jig references off the table saw top miter slots for accuracy of cut.  I have a piece of aluminum miter track that could be used to make a slidable stop for varying the distance between the spline slots in the project.

I could use dowels and/or biscuits in the box corners, but the contrasting splines makes a strong joint since end grain wood doesn't prove a strong joint and the splines are beautiful as well.  

I need to purchase a piece of Birch 3/4 inch plywood 2' x 2' for the base and the trough and 1" x 4" board for the front and back supports, or might just use the Birch plywood for the supports.

Web published by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 04-01-19.

JIG READY FOR TESTING

LETS GET STARTED

I was at Lowe's in Rockingham, NC on 04-06-19 and purchased a sheet of 3/4 inch x 2' x 4' Birch plywood and a pine framing stud 2" x 4" x 8'.  My bride and myself had lunch at the Pizza Inn and was traveling in our car, therefore I cut the 2 x 4 x 8 pine stuff in half with one of Lowe's handsaws; field tested great too.....grin if you must!

I did have one small glitch as I put a 1 1/4 inch brad nail in the front and rear of an angle support block in the path of the saw blade and will let the saw cut it when I run the jig across the table saw with a crosscut saw blade which no doubt will cause a sharpening fee.  I might have elevated the miter track upward more, however there should be plenty of room for a spline with the saw blade below the miter track and doubt I will be splining anything larger than 1 inch thickness stock.

SEQUENCE PIXS TAKEN  

Click on the below thumbnail sequence pixs taken for a larger screen view.  The pixs are pretty much self explanatory.  Nothing high tech at all about making this simple jig.  It should be noted that the jig plans captured from the internet shows 1/2 inch thick plywood, however I used 3/4 inch thick plywood and the longer front two end braces will need to be shortened about 1/2 inch to make the ends flush with the edge of the plywood base support member; no big deal if they aren't flush either.

I used mostly coarse thread 1 1/4 inch length dry wall screws for the majority of the construction with Titebond Ultimate III wood glue except for short flat head screws for the two table saw miter runners.  I predrilled and countersunk the holes to keep the wood from slitting, etc.  I used several lead weights melted down from reclaimed wad cutter lead bullets from a DOC firing range in Salemburg, NC that was screened from the rear berm in early 1979 to hold the base on top of the runners while the glue dried.  I then used a few 18 gauge 1 inch length brads to make certain nothing moved, since I didn't allow the glue to dry but a couple hours if that much.  I predrilled and countersunk two flat head screws into each maple runner to the corner spline jig base.

The miter saw was used to cut the forty-five (45) degree angles on the block supports, of which I used a 2 x 4 instead of 3/4 inch wood as per the drawing.  I know, an overkill for sure which is my normal MO aka (Modus Operandi.)

I will either purchase another knob with a 5/16 x 18 tpi threaded insert or rob one off one of the fixtures I am not using, but the next trip to Lowe's in Rockingham, NC, plan to purchase a few extra threaded knobs. 

About the only critical area for this simple jig is having your table saw and miter saw cut a near perfect forty-five (45) degree angle to end up with a ninety (90) degree angle in the cradle or trough, otherwise you will have to shim the 4 inch wide upper support members (cradle) that holds your project to cut the corner splines.  It is best to do a few sample test cuts before committing to cutting your final pieces.  I if planned on making much larger boxes with splines, I would lengthen the width of the cradle members for added support.

PAT WARNER ALUMINUM RIGHT ANGLE

I used a forty-five (45) degree aluminum right angle made by Pat Warner, deceased of Escondido, CA which is very accurate.  I also have a Starrett C359 precision universal bevel vernier protractor with acute angle for angles other than forty-five degrees.  Read my short story above all squares are not square!

A close-up pix of the right angle in aluminum that I purchased from Pat Warner.  My Delta miter saw is cutting close enough for Govt. work.....grin if you must!

I cut the 3/4 inch wide slot x 3/8 inch deep in one of the cradle aka trough members on the table saw using multiple passes instead of setting up a dado saw blade and made book end type end clamps which will be a plus to secure the box you plan to cut splines into the corners.  Some of the YouTube videos I watched went a little more high tech and added a ruler on top of one of the cradle aka trough members.

The corner spline jig serial number is SN 70.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 04-07-19.