NOTE:  I was gifted a couple pieces of black walnut that will make at least one secretary/letter box.

Mike True of Mike's Heirloom Boxes offers fantastic boxes for sale on Etsy at various times and does First Class All American work.....a top of the line craftsman for sure and a valuable resource.

NOTE:  None of the hyperlinks to Mike's Heirloom Boxes are working.  Mike apparently due to an accident, no longer offers his heirloom boxes via Etsy.  Updated  11-17-2020.

Web published by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 04-18-19.

Completed secretary/letter box on 06-11-19 SN 74.

I give Mike's Heirloom Boxes credit for the design of this box, I only implemented what was already there.  Copying/imitating someone is one of the sincerest forms of flattery there is and pay the person a genuine compliment!  I made a few minor correctable mistakes along the way since this project entailed a learning curve, especially installing the full mortise lock and striker plate.

I did change the design of the lift out tray and handle as far as adding splines in the corners to reinforce the forty-five (45) degree miters.

PERSONAL SAFETY AND LIABILITY ISSUES

My goal will be to keep Safety paramount because hand and power tools can do serious bodily harm and death if not used properly, therefore these pages are solely for entertainment purposes only from a personal liability standpoint.  Please read the Legal Stuff page for additional information concerning liability issues before going any further.  Safety glasses and hearing protection is a must, although I do forgo the hearing protection many times; my bad!

LETS GET STARTED

I located a couple pieces of scrap aka unallocated black walnut which had a bow in the longer piece and it was about 1 inch thick.  I cut a section from it that was 25 inches in length, ripped all the pieces to 5 inches in width; and ran the bowed pieces across the jointer to have one flat surface.  I then ran them through the planer and ended up with about 3/4 inch final thickness for the three boards.

I did some test forty-five degree cuts on the forty-five degree miter sled and the 45 degree angle was good, however I did not have a near perfect 90 degree right angle in the vertical plane.  It took several trial adjustments on the sled rear member which is allowed to pivot to get a near perfect 90 degree cut.  I had to enlarge the hole in the rear support guide member to give me more adjustment with the 5/16 x 18 inch bolt, but finally got it right and secured the member.  Check this link out which probably accounts for having to recalibrate the sled.

I used my Pat Warner custom aluminum right angle to set the table saw to a 45 degree angle.  There is a 45 degree angle stop set screw on the table saw tilt mechanism, but I don't rely on it for pin point accuracy.

I cut the three boards to a forty-five (45) degree angle on one end; marked the length desired and set a temporary stop to get the same length cut on the side pieces and set the stop for the front and back pieces, otherwise you will not end up with ninety (90) degree corners.

I used masking tape to check the fit and everything looked pretty good; nice fitting joints.  The acid test will be when I use the Merle adjustable band clamps which has ninety (90) degree corner blocks and the band clamps does a good job in aligning the corners.

Hopefully, all four corners will look like the mock tape up joint.....grin if you must!

After the test fit of the miter joints, I found a piece of curly maple to make a raised top for the secretary box and cut a rabbit on all sides to fit a routed 1/4 inch slot in the box.

I used a small ninety degree sled to cut the board to its final length before the rabbit.

After the final dimensional cuts, the rabbit was cut into the board and there is some room added for any movement caused by humidity, etc.

I used the table router to cut 1/4 inch width slots for the top, back and two small tabs for the upper pull out drawer. 

The router bit was changed to a 3/8 inch radius, but the cut wasn't enough radius and changed the router bit to a 1/2 inch diameter radius. 

I did a dry fit for the top and like the looks of it.

I set the band saw auxiliary fence against the regular fence and ripped a 1 inch thick board x 5 inches width and got several boards around .240 inches in thickness.  Two of the boards were glued together to give me the required width that I needed for the bottom.

After the glue sets up overnight, I will cut the bottom to the final dimensions; do a test fit and start the sanding process for both the inside and outside for all the members and then the glue up using the Merle adjustable band clamps.    

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-14-19.

BOX GLUE UP

After getting the back member sanded and cut to size using the table saw, I did another dry fit to ascertain everything fit ok and then it was glue up time.  As stated earlier, the Merle adjustable band clamps does a good job in keeping the box corners square.  I used masking tape on the outside of the sides and back, applied glue with a brush and then simply folded the pieces into the box shape, inserted the top and back members into the 1/4 inch width routed slots.  The remaining end was fitted in place and masking tape to hold everything in place until the Merle adjustable band clamps were in position and tightened.

THUMBNAIL PIXS BELOW

It is only 10:18 in the morning and will cut some test spline strips from maple for the corners of the box to help reinforce the 45 degree miter joints, whereas such joints are not that strong being glued on the end grain.  Also, the contrast between the maple and the walnut should pop out real good too.  The corner spline jig will get its début very soon.  

CUTTING SPLINES AND TESTING

I used the table saw to cut maple splines for the corners of the secretary/letter box.  My crosscut saw blade is approximately .125 inches in kerf width which will be the width of the spline slots in the box corners.  I had some left over black walnut that I used to test the miter joints and glued two pieces to give me a ninety degree angle for testing out the corner spline jig while the glue dries on the secretary/letter box. 

I used a home made jig referenced off the left table top miter slot to have repeatable cuts.  With the jig, you do not have to attempt to cut the narrow strips and have them trapped between the table saw fence and the saw blade which can be dangerous as far as kickback is concerned.  Letting the thin strip pass on the outside of the saw blade is definitely much safer in my humble opinion.

Once the desired width strip is desired, you move the fence over with your wood until it touches the gauge on the left.  I used the dial caliper to set the jig. 

THUMBNAIL PIXS

Close-up pix of the test spline on scrap material.

Tomorrow, the Lord willing of course, I will saw the slots into the corners of the secretary/letter box using the corner spline jig and glue the splines in place.

Web published update by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-15-19.

INSTALLED CORNER SPLINES

After the testing of the corner spline jig yesterday, it is time to slot the box and glue in the corner splines.  Most of the splines were a little bit over size and had to hand sand them down several thousands of an inch.

I realized very quickly that you need a calibrated scale attached to the cradle member facing you, of which I placed masking tape on there and drew marks in line with the saw blade.  I then measured where I wanted the slots to be in reference to the center line of the saw blade and marked the masking tape.  The book end type stops worked great keeping the box positioned and stable where you desire to cut the slots!

I let the glue set for 3.5 hours +-, although the Titebond Ultimate III glue sets up very fast and many remove clamping devices within 30 minutes, but I am still old school when it comes to glue drying; hard to break old habits and I definitely am not in any kind of a production mode.  I used a no kerf thin dowel trim saw to cut the excess splines flush with the box and then sanded smooth.

It is beginning to look like a secretary/letter box for sure.

I ordered a pair of solid brass quadrant hinges from Rockler which is a functional hinge, but they look cheap and cheesy in comparison to the Brusso high dollar quadrant hinges and will round up a brass and/or brass plated full mortise lock for the box. 

REMOVING THE LID FROM THE BOX

I used the table saw and a thin kerf rip blade (22 teeth total) to detach the lid from the base.  I set the saw fence where the bottom of the box would rest against the fence and the lid portion would be to the left of the saw blade.  After I made the first cut, I used masking tape across the slot made by the saw blade and did this for three (3) sides and finished the fourth side cut which came out excellent.  No heroics involved here with the table saw.....grin if you must! 

Inserting a scrap piece of the wood the thickness of the saw blade would be much better than just the masking tape by itself in my humble opinion.  Wood does open up and close up many times do the stress factor and the grain structure of the wood too.

I have a book titled Basic Box Making by Doug Stowe that has valuable information about building all kind of small boxes.  My Sister Susan Pettigrew of Reidsville, NC gifted me with the book thinking is was about making turkey box calls.  Nevertheless, it has been an excellent resource book with lots of tips and pictures on how to build small boxes, etc. 

STARTED LIFT OUT TRAY

After cutting the lid free from the base of the secretary/letter box, I glued in two support ledger strips that will hold the lift out tray in position.  I was guessing at the ledger distance and will end up with a tray that is 3/4 inch deep, however there is about 5/8 inch of spare space in the lid below the "floating" curly maple top.  I reinforced the miter joints, however that is probably an overkill because the bottom will be glued in place and should be strong enough.  The maple corner splines do add a little bit of a custom touch to the tray.  The pivoting handle 45 degree ends had a spline installed since they do need extra strength not provided by just end grain being glued together.

THUMBNAIL PIXS

Tomorrow, the Lord willing of course, I will rip (band saw) a piece of walnut to about 1/4 + inch thickness and do a glue up like I did for the bottom of the box.

I plan to order a sheet of 24 x 48 x 1/4 inch walnut veneer plywood for making the bottom and pull out tray, however the vendor that handles it, the item is currently out of stock.

WALNUT VENEER SAGA - HOME DEPOT

NOTE:  I ordered 3 walnut veneer panels Columbia Forest Products 2' x 4' x 1/4" from Home Depot and the first panel I removed from the shipping box had a lamination separation.  Also, the total thickness was .198 inches, a long way from .250 inches as advertised.  The walnut lamination was so light in color, it didn't even resemble walnut.  I measured the lamination that came unglued and it was .020 inches.  The center core is poplar for a total of three laminations.

The ole cliché, "A picture is worth a thousand words!

Home Depot asked me to do a product review and I told them the product was a piece of junk and would not recommend it to anyone.  They rejected my review and wanted me to revise it, as if they were doing me a favor......not in my lifetime.  If you do not want the truth, don't ask for it!

Web page updated on 06-21-19. 

This project is definitely moving much quicker than the curly maple mission style end tables!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 04-16-19.

COMPLETED THE LIFT OUT TRAY

I band sawed to width, a 5" wide x 1" thick x 12" +- length of black walnut to a 1/4 inch thickness and glued two pieces together early this morning.  In the afternoon, I cut it to size and glued and screwed it to bottom of the frame for the lift out tray.  Since I only have about 3/4 inch for the depth, should have been at least 1 inch, I fitted the bottom of the tray where it would not make contact with the ledger strips, only the frame member and didn't lose 1/4 inch in depth of the tray.  A more or less U double L shape handle was made with 45 degree miter joints and later after the glue dried several hours, slotted the miters for a maple spline to strengthen the glue joint.  I drum sanded a couple small half moon shapes in the center of the handle for the fingers to get hold of the handle to left the tray from the box.  If I do these type of secretary/letter boxes in the future, I would probably make a jig for the router table instead of drum sanding the half moon shape to cut down on the dust factor and help the ole lungs out......grin if you must!

On assembling the handle to the tray, I put the cart before the horse so to speak.  I should have fitted the handle before I glued the back in place which would have made it much easier, but it still came together ok.

THUMBNAIL PIXS

I am thinking about an inlay of mother of pearl or abalone for the lid bordered by ebony for contrast with the light colored curly maple wood which will not be stained.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-17-19.

ORDERED CHEAP HINGES

I am sometimes my worst enemy in trying to be frugal, because I know, "Most of the time, you get what you pay for."  I ordered a pair of Rockler solid brass quadrant hinges SKU 24300 and after receiving the hinges, they were definitely far too cheesy and cheap looking for this secretary/letter box, therefore broke down and ordered a "high dollar" pair of small Brusso solid brass quadrant hinges....they are top of the line and look it too.  I will add a side by side pix comparison of the hinges when the Brusso hinges arrive.

The Brusso hinges are much heavier gauge .080 +-  material and in solid brass, whereas the Rockler are brass .064 thickness  Also, the screws for the Rockler are miniscule to say the least.  I am sure the Rockler hinges would work fine and has a larger "foot print" than the Brusso hinges, whereas you can see the quality in the Brusso quadrant hinges.  As soon as my Jig It jig plate arrives for the Brusso HD-638 hinges, I will install them.

I will use the Rockler quadrant hinges on a small utility box for tools, etc.

NOTE:  I went to use the above Rockler quadrant hinges on another box in 2024, but could not locate them, grin if you must!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-28-19.

Rather than reinvent the wheel so to speak, I also ordered a Rockler Jig It system for routing the mortise slots for the hinges which is very reasonably priced.  There is no doubt in my mind, I can cut the mortises free hand, but I definitely like "working smarter not harder."    If you plan to do more than a few of the same thing, a jig or fixture is the way to go for productivity and accuracy; that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

The Rockler Jig It system has inserts available for different manufacturer's hinges.  The system requires a plunge router with a 3/8 inch OD guide bushing and a 3/16 inch diameter router bit.  My DeWalt DW625 3 HP plunge routers are far to large and heavy for this project and they require a good amount of real estate for their base, therefore ordered a small 1.25 HP DeWalt plunge router kit DWP611PK which has the standard base with it and carrying bag.  It will definitely get used for other things as well.

After receiving the plunge router, I installed a 3/8 inch OD guide bushing in the plunge router base.  It is imperative that you use some type of alignment pin/tool inserted in the router chuck, loosen the phenolic base screws which normally has some adjustment room, plunge the alignment pin into the bushing and tighten the phenolic router base plate.  This will ensure that your router bit is centered into the bushing which spells accuracy!

Close-up of the brass guide bushing and the steel alignment pin centered.

Mortise hinge routing system ready for a test run.

DAVID VERSUS GOLIATH

The above pix shows the comparison between the 1.25 HP versus the 3 HP DeWalt plunge router.

Full mortise locks are on order and now it is a waiting game until the items are received to get back onto this project.  I plan to construct a simple jig plate for the Jig It fixture to do two of the three steps required for a full mortise lock installation.  As Jethro Bodine would say, "Have to do some ciphering on this one", grin if you must!.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-22-19.

JIG READY FOR TRIAL RUN

The Brusso quadrant hinges should be arriving within a week along with a template insert just for that particular hinge for the Rockler Jig It mortising jig.

I am getting a little antsy waiting on some things ordered, but that is the way it goes when you don't multi-task ordering things needed.

Above pix of the jig clamped in place ready for the router.

The first order of business is getting something underneath the lid to raise the height where the box and lid are flush aka level with each other.  I ripped a piece of scrap aka unallocated black walnut to around 2 inches in width and it was wide enough to easily support the lid.  Next, you mark a center line on both sides of the box and lid where the outer portion of the quadrant hinge will rest.  You place the jig between the lid and the box and align the rear slidable cross member of the jig where the center mark on the slidable member is positioned over the center line mark you just made.  Clamp the fixture in place and you are ready to start routing.

As with most jigs and fixtures that work using a guide bushing on the router base, the guide bushing follows the cut out in the fixture and the routed cavity is exactly where you want it, if your fixture is correctly made to fit that particular guide bushing in combination with the appropriate diameter router bit.

I will detail the router set-up when the Brusso hinges and the template insert arrives.

CLOSE-UP OF THE JIG IT

The above template will allow you to make all the required mortises for the Brusso style hinge, in this case the above template matches their own Rockler solid brass quadrant hinges, of which I do not plan to use those hinges since they look to cheap and cheesy in comparison to the Brusso hinges!  I will use the Rockler quadrant hinges on a small utility box project in the future.   

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-23-19.

NO TEMPLATE AVAILABLE FOR THE FULL MORTISE LOCK

I sent emails to Rockler Woodworking and Woodcraft if there was a jig plate available for the Jig It jig to route mortises for the full mortise lock and the answer was nil.

I viewed one YouTube video that showed the usage of a plastic right angle template to install a full mortise lock and it worked great, however there was no viable link to who manufactured the jig and its availability.  I emailed the person who wrote the blog/video and never received a reply as of yet.

In the meantime, I started building a simple wood template jig for the Woodcraft full mortise lock and it has been one of those days that nothing seemed to go smoothly.  I plan to create a separate page just for the full mortise lock jig.

I believe I can build a jig template for the Jig It jig also for the full mortise lock and it will be a good challenge for sure.  If I owned a milling machine, CNC router and/or an accurate drill mill, it would not be that difficult.  I have an X-Y table/vise for my large drill press, but it is not really that accurate and the drill press quill is not designed for such side to side torque required.

I will post the link from this page, once I finish the router jig for the full mortise lock.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-25-19.

INSTALLED BRUSSO HINGES

The template insert for the Brusso hinges arrived this afternoon 05-30-19 and got a chance to field test it and the hinges fit "tighter than two coats of paint", in fact had to file the side of the routed cavity a couple thousands to get the hinges to go into the routed cavity. 

I had already marked a center line on the sides of the box and lid where the hinges will go and the jig rear support with a centerline was placed over the center line on the box.  The jig was clamped into position with three small three inch or less length C clamps.

The Jig It plate for the Brusso HD 638 quadrant hinges has a series of three guide slots each labeled A, B and C.  The mortise slots in the jig plate labeled A and B are used to route the two wings sometimes called arms.  Mortise slots labeled C are used to route a hole for the detachable support arm which allows the lid to remain open at a 95 degree angle.  The cavity in the lid needs to be at least 3/8 inch for the upper portion of the supporting arm to rest when the lid is in the closed position.

If your router bit is long enough, you can route the full depth for the support arm which requires at least 1. 5 inches total and if your lid is thick enough, you can route half the distance where the supporting arm will rest equally in both the lid and the box.  Most route and/or drill the full depth for the supporting arm in the box body due to the height of the box.  

THUMBNAIL PIXS

I used a Speedy self-center drill for a 5/64 inch diameter drill bit for # 2 screws and drilled all the holes for the hinges.  I opened the upper portion of the 5/64 inch hole to 3/32 of an inch for the upper body of the brass screw.  The Brusso hinges comes with a steel screw to cut the threads into the pilot hole drilled and then install the brass screw.  I stripped the head of the steel screw and had a time getting it to back out, but finally got it with some time and effort.  That is when I opened up the upper portion of the pilot holes drilled to 3/32 inch and everything went well after that.

Now it is a waiting game on the 3/16 inch two flute carbide flat bottom tipped cutter with a long shank to be able to use the full mortise lock jig I recently made.

The hinges were mounted pretty much flush and the lid and body of the box fit nicely together.  I will go over the box again with the Porter-Cable vibrating sander model 330 with 320 grit paper.  It is best the have the hinge arms a couple thousands of an inch proud where the front of the lid will be flush with the box, otherwise if the hinges are mounted below flush (too low) in the mortise, the front of the lid will not fully close.

The Rockler Jig It jig definitely gets a 5 star rating in my book.  The instructions with the jig are right on the money too!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 05-30-19.

INSTALLED FULL MORTISE LOCK

After receiving the long shank router bit, I routed mortises for the lock selvedge and lock body.  The lid was routed for the striker plate and a cavity aka mortise for the lock bolt to rest in as well.  Holes were drilled for key hole, but I had to realign the drill template since the holes were to the right of where they needed to be.  I used an antiquated Dremel Moto Tool router with a small router base attachment and a 1/8 inch diameter spiral end mill to complete the key hole. 

I have detailed the installation of the full mortise lock here and will make a small curly maple knob for the lid and do some final sanding prior to spraying a few coats of nitrocellulose lacquer.  I plan to sand a slight angle on the outside of the lid and box to highlight a line for eye appear where the lid and box meet.

I will install the escutcheon after the finish is applied.  The escutcheon pin holes are already drilled.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-04-19.

MADE LID KNOB

I used a piece of scrap aka unallocated curly maple to make a knob for the lid.  I used two (2) router bits being a 5/16 inch radius ball nose and a 3/8 inch bull nose router bit, both manufactured by Whiteside here in NC.  I used the table saw to cut the width needed after doing the routing.  I have enough for several knobs as needed.

I blended the routed edges using a 6 x 48 inch belt sander and a Porter-Cable 330 palm sander.

THUMBNAIL PIXS

With more final sanding, this secretary/letter box will be ready to apply a few coats of nitrocellulose lacquer and let my bride have this one.  She already has a placed picked out for it!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-04-19.

FIRST COAT OF LACQUER

I sprayed a thin coat of lacquer on the secretary/letter box on 06-06-19 and planned to spray another coat today, but we got some much needed drizzling rain.

There are five (5) days of rain forecasted and will spray additional coats of lacquer when the weather (humidity) conditions permit.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-07-19.

SECOND COAT OF LACQUER APPLIED

The humidity was around 64 % at mid-day and lightly buffed the box and components; e.g., lift out tray and handle with 320 grit sanding paper, but had better results with a green Scotchbrite pad getting into the corners in preparation for spraying the second coat of musical grade instrument nitrocellulose lacquer thinned about 25 %.

I do not plan to add a build up of lacquer like I did on the curly maple coffee and end tables, just enough finish to protect and seal the wood and bring out the grain pattern in the walnut and curly maple.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-08-19.

MODIFIED TURN TABLE

Back in October 2010, I made a turn table for spraying a banjo resonator and since then have used the base being plywood for something else.

I modified the turn table today on 06-10-19 to use for spraying the secretary/letter box using some scrap aka unallocated pine shelving material. 

I screwed a piece of pine onto the turn table to elevate the box to facilitate spraying the lacquer.

The pivot point is a 1/2 inch hardwood dowel rod that fits tightly into the base support.

As soon as the weather is conducive (humidity less than 65%), I will spray a few more coats of lacquer on the secretary/letter box, however it looks pretty good with just two coats and rubbed to a matt type finish.

SPRAYED THIRD COAT OF LACQUER

I sprayed a fairly heavy wet coat of lacquer on the box and didn't see any runs.

I sprayed the lacquer outside on a table in front of the basement garage door since nitrocellulose lacquer has a very high VOC and after spraying one heavy coat only, brought the turn table and secretary/letter box back inside to cure out.

I will let the lacquer cure out several days and might not need additional coats which will be fine too.  Like I said earlier, I don't plan to do an extensive build up of lacquer as some of my projects.

I believe my bride is going to be well pleased with this secretary/letter box.    

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-10-19.

INSTALLED ESCUTCHEON

I installed the escutcheon on 06-11-19 and had to shorten the mounting nails about 1/8 inch due to them hitting the lock body.  I see now why Mike's Heirloom Boxes has the full mortise lock installed to the back side of the front of the box instead of centered; just a guesstimate at the best!

My bride has her rings, watches, etc. stored in the lift out tray and special cards of interest in the bottom of the box.  She was totally euphoric and delighted with this box.

A few other goodies I have made for her!

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-11-19.   

TEAK WOOD SECRETARY BOXES

I was gifted a couple teak wood boards, of which the person who gave them to me thought they were walnut, however they were teak wood.

Both of the two teak wood secretary boxes after a few weeks, the left front corner of the lid began to rise upward and later cut the splines from the lid and trued up the lid which had a serious warp to it, however it was too much to try and get totally flat.  I re-splined the box the box and got it as close as I could by readjusting the Brusso quadrant hinges.

Above is pix of the walnut book matched lid insert panel.

I readjusted the Brusso hinges and sanded the bottom edge of the lid as flat as I could.  The lid insert panel is crotch feathered walnut and very beautiful.

Both of the above secretary boxes were completed on 06-24-2019 and my bride definitely enjoys them.

CEDAR AND CURLY MAPLE TOP SECRETARY BOX

Lately, I have been using up my scrap aka unallocated wood to build a couple more secretary boxes for my bride of fifty-six (56) years and I nicknamed her "The Box Lady", grin if you must!

The above box was completed on 05-27-2024.  I used ebony splines and ebony lift knob for this box.

CURLY MAPLE AND WALNUT SECRETARY BOX

The above secretary box was completed on 06-29-2024 and several coats of lacquer were applied.  I have not installed the keyhole cover (escutcheon) yet and will probably do so on Monday July 1, 2024.

I did not do any sequence pixs of the last four (4) secretary boxes completed since there are plenty of sequence pix taken for the first walnut and maple secretary box.  All the secretary boxes have a lift out tray with handle.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 06-29-2024.

ANOTHER SECRETARY BOX

I have been using up my scrap aka unallocated wood and the insert in the lid panel is book matched and has an unusual pattern to it.  If you look close, you can visualize some type of face in the left section of the panel.

The above secretary box was completed on 09-05-2024 SN 483.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 09-06-2024.

ZEBRAWOOD AND CURLY MAPLE SECRETARY BOX

Above secretary box completed on 10-02-2024 which features zebrawood solid wood raised panel insert and curly maple sides.    I also added the last of my wood marquetry that I used on my turkey box calls which was also used on Gibson pre-war Mastertone banjos style 4.

Serial number is SN 484 and my bride and myself are well pleased with this box.  The locking mechanism worked like a charm.

Web page updated by Bill aka Mickey Porter on 10-03-2024.

LEAVING ON A SPIRITUAL NOTE

If you do not know Jesus Christ as your Lord and Savior, please take this moment to accept him by Faith into your Life, whereby Salvation will be attained.   

Ephesians 2:8 - 2:9 8  For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: [it is] the gift of God: 9 Not of works, lest any man should boast.

Hebrews 11:1 “Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.”

Romans 10:17 “So then faith cometh by hearing, and hearing by the word of God.”

Open this link about faith in the King James Bible.